Manufacture of shoes



Q Sept. 21, 1937.

. w. N UTT MANUFACTURE OF HQES Ema m "13, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 flaw-M wSept. 21, 1937.1 w. 31mm 241 x 1 MANUFACTURE OF SHOES and Nov. 13, 193628heets-Sheet ,2-

54 Figs.

' Patented setter 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Application November1:. 1936, Serial No. 110,688

14 Claims.

This invention relates-to the art of making shoes and to improvements inshoes and shank pieces therefor.

Objects of the invention are to provide an improved method of .makingshoes having outsoles which are exceptionally narrow in their shankportions, to provide improved shoes of this type, and to provideimproved shank pieces for use in the manufacture of such shoes.

To the attainment of 'theseobjects, as herein illustrated, I provide ashank piece of relatively stiif inflexible material such, for example,aswood shaped to conform both in surface and marginal contours to thecorresponding contours of the ma] channel in its lower or lasting side,the chan-. nel being relatively wide and shallow and extending from itsforward end rearwardly into its heel portion. As illustrated herein, theshank piece is assembled on a last with an insole member and'a shoeupper, the insole member being the full length of the shoe bottom or, ifdesired, being only a little longer than the 'forepart of the shoe sothat it may overlap the shank piece; by half or three-quarters of aninch. The marginal portions of the upper are cut fuller .or wider thannormal in the shank portion of the shoe and areworked over the, last inthe usual manner. The upper is secured in overlasted position upon theinsole in the forepart of the shoe. "In the shank portion of the shoethe wide portions of the upper are worked over the shank piece andsecured in overlapped relation beneath the channeled portion of thelatter bymeans of suitable lasting fastenings,

such as staples, which are driven into the shank piece at the bottom ofthe channel. The opposite sides of the upper are lasted separately inthe shank portion of the shoe, the portion first lasted side issubstantially flush with the outer side of the. unchanneled portions ofthe shank piece. The opposite sidebf the shank portion of the upper isthen lapped over the portion which has been sunk within the channel sothat a substan- 45 tially smooth and level surface is presentedforthe;,reception of the outsole. Inasmuch as the outer side of the shankpiece is entirely covered by the upper and the lasting fastenings arelocated only along the longitudinally central porresulting from thesinking of the inner margin of the upper in the channel in the shankpiece bottom of a last and having a central longitudi-L being sunkwithin the channel so that its outer.

tion of the shoe bottom in the shank of the shoe, an outsole may beemployed which is cut excep- 1 tionally narrow in its shank portion-Moreover.

the smooth and substantially level bottom surface facilitatessecureattachment of the narrow shank portion of the outsole v to theshoe and insures that the line of the last bottom shall be accuratelyreproduced in the shank of the outsole. As herein illustrated, a shortoutsole is employed which ex- 5 tendsrearwardly only approximately towhere the breast of the heel is to be located. At the heel end of theshoe the upper is secured in overlasted position directly to the shankpiece and the heel is attached to the overlasted portions of the upper 1and to the shank piece with the breast face oi the .heel abutting therear end of the outsole, it being unnecessary to perform any heel-seatfitting I operation other than the trimming of the rear end of theoutsole to adapt it to abut the breast face of the heel. 1 Further.features of the invention are to be recognized asresiding in a shankpiece of improved construction and in improved features of shoeconstruction hereinafter described and claimed.

The invention will now be explained wlth'reference to the accompanyingdrawings, in which.

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shank piece embodyingmy invention;Fig. 2 is a longitudinal sectional view taken on the line II-II of Fig.1; I

Fig. 3 is a transverse sectional view taken on the line II[III of Fig.1;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the shank piece of Fig. 1 showing theshank piece, t ogether'with a short insole member, mounted on a last;

Fig. 51s a perspective view of a unit comprising the shank piece of Fig.1 having a short insole 7 member secured to it; p

Fig. 6 is a view, partially in side elevation and partially in section,of a shoe in course of construction having the improved shank pieceincorporated therein;

Fig. '1 is a plan view of the shoe after part of the lasting operationhas been performed;

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view, on an enlarged scale, of the shoeon the-last; and

- Fig. 9 is a fragmentary longitudinal sectional view of the completedshoe-i.

In making a shoe in accordance with the method illustrated herein astiff and relatively inflexible shank piece I4 is formed either fromsolid wood-or from moldable material such as plastic wood or fiber whichwill harden to prov:50 duce a relatively rigid-foot supporting member.As illustrated in Figs. 1 to 4, inclusive. the shank piece I is shapedto conform, both'in marginal and surface contours, to the correspondingcontou s of the heel and shank portions of a last .55

bottom. The shank piece is of substantial thickness except that itsmarginal portion is beveled to a thin edge entirely around the shankpiece. As shown, the lower surface of the heel portion of the shankpiece is rounded' to fit the cup or depression in the attaching face ofa wood heel and the shank piece is otherwise shaped as clearly indicatedin the drawings. Thereafter a longitudinal slot or channel I6 is formedinside the marginal portions of its outer or upper engaging surface.This channel extends from thefront extremity of the shank piecerearwardly into the heel portion thereof. As herein shown, the channelI6 is centrally located widthwise of the shank piece and it isrelatively wide and shallow, the depth of the channel being preferablyequal to the thickness of the upper materials of the shoe in which theshank piece is to be incorporated so as to receive the overlasted marginof the upper at one side of the shoe with the outer surface of thatportion of the upper which is in the channelsubstantially flush with thelower surface of the shank piece. If the shank piece is formed from asolid piece of wood the channel may be cut therein by means of a rotarycutter and if the shank piece is molded from plastic material thechannel may be formed therein during the molding operation. It will benoted that the channel or slot l6 extends entirely through the shankpiece at the relatively thin front end portion of the latter so that thedesired sinking of the upper in the shank piece may be eifectedthroughout the entire length of the shank portion of the shoe bottom.

In making the shoe the shank piece may be mounted with an insole memberon a last I8 and the parts secured in position on the last bottom bytacks 20. The insole member maybe a full length insole 22, as shown inFig. 6, in which case the shank piece may be attached to the outersurface 01' the insole by cement. Alternatively the insole member may bea short insole 220 adapted to extend only throughout the forepart of ashoe,'as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. If a short insole is employed, the rearportion of the short insole may be beveled as indicated at 24 in Fig. 5,and secured by. cement or otherwise in overlapped relation to theforward portion of the shank piece.

After the shank piece and the insole-member have been temporarilysecuredto a last bottom, a shoe upper comprising an outer layer 26 and alining 28 is assembled on the last, pulled over in the customary mannerat its heel and toe portion,

' and secured in such positions by tacks 30 in the usual way. The usualcounter 32 duced between the-outer layer and fore the materials arepulled over. The opposite marginal portions of both layers of the upperare cut fuller than normal in the shank portion of the shoe, as bestshown in Figs. 6 and 7, wherein the wide or full shank portions of theupper and lining are indicated at 34.

The upper is now ready for the lasting operation may be introthe liningbewherein the opposite marginal portions of the.

upper at the forepart of the usual manner and the insole member.

the shoe are gripped in worked over the margins of The forepart of theupper may be secured in overlasted position upon the insole member bycurved staples 38 (Fig. which extend through the upper materials andinto the material of the insole member without passing completelythrough the latter, this operation being preferably performed-withtheaidof a.

machine of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patent No.1,815,297, granted July 21,

1931, upon an application filed in the name of George Goddu. Theforepart of the upper could, however, be secured in lasted relation tothe insole in other ways,'for example by means of cement or by tacks.

The upper and the lining at one side of the shank portion of the shoeare now tensioned over the last and secured by means of suitable lastingfastenings, such as staples 40, in overlasted position upon the shankpiece I4, with the full or wide marginal portion 34 sunk within thechannel it. Curved staples may be employed such as those used in lastingthe upper in the forepart of the shoe. The staples 40 extend throughthose portions of the upper materials which overlie the channel andcurve into the wood of-the shank piece without extending en-' tirelythrough the latter. After the staples 40 have been driven the adjacentportions of the upper materials will have been drawn down into thechannel It and fitted snugly against the bottom of the channel so thatthe lower or exposed surface of the portion of the upper which lies inthe channel I 6 is flush or substantially fiush with the lower surfaceof the shank piece. Preferably the full shank portions 34 of the uppermaterials are initially cut so that they will not extend entirely acrossthe channel l6, after having been tensioned over the last, but so thattheir edgeswill lie entirely within the channel without having to betrimmed. However, if necessary, the upper materials may be trimmed afterhaving been lasted so that they will not extend entirely across thechannel. The upper "materials at the opposite side of the shoe are nextworked over the last and secured, as by means of staples 42, in theshank piece H with their full marginal portions 34 overlying the uppermaterials which have already been lasted, the staples 42 being locatedin line with the channel l6 and extending through the first lastedportions of the upper materials and into the shank piece. It the fullshank portions 34 of the upper materials at this side 0! the shoe havebeen cut properly, they will not have to be trimmed to avoid overlappingthe portions of the first lasted upper materials which do not lie withinthe channel l6, although, if necessary, a suitable trimming operationmay be performed to insure against such overlapping. Inasmuch as themarginal portions of the upper materials at the side which was firstlasted are sunk within and completely fill the channel It, the outersurface of the upper materials which were subsequently lasted over thefirst-lasted upper margins is flush with the outer surface of thoseportions of the firstlasted' upper margins which are located outside ofthe channel and thus a smooth and substan-' tially level bottom surfaceis presented to receive the outsole, there being no ridge. where theupper materials at one side of the shoe overlap those at the oppositeside of the shoe. 7

'I'he upper materials at the toe and heel-seat portions of the shoe arenext secured in lasted relation to the insole member 22 and the shankpiece l4, respectively, as shown in 7. The toe and heel portions of theupper may be lasted in any usual or'convenient manner. For example, theymay be lasted with the aid of the well-known Bed lasting machine andsecured in lasted positions by tacks 44 and 46.

The lasted shoe is now ready for the attachment or an outsole. As shownin Fig. 9, an outsole 50 is employed which has an extremelynaroverlasted position upon aoosnra heel such as the covered Cuban heel52 is then" positioned upon the shoe bottom, the rear portion of theoutsole trimmed, in a well-known manner, for example by means of a handtrim ming knife, so as to provide a rear edge upon the outsole shaped toabut. squarely against the breast of the heel. The heel is thenattached, as

- by means of inside nails 54, directly to the marsins of the upperwhichare overlasted upon the,

heel end of the shank piece and 'to the shank niece itself. It will beseen thatno heel-seat fitting operation is required other than thetrimming of'the rearend of the outsole asabove described because, asalready explained, the heelseat portion of the shank piece I is shapedto fit the cup or depression in the'heel and the upper is lasteddirectly to that portion of the shank piece so that the general shape-ofthe overlasted. margins of the-upper in that locality is substantiallythe same as that oithe shank piece itself. The elimination of theheel-seat operation before the attaching of the heel naturally reducesthe expense of manufacturing the shoe.

The relatively inflexible shank piece I! ..pro

vides an excellent support'for the shank portion of the foot and itsouter side is covered by the upper materials which. lie closely. andsmoothly against the surface of the shank piece in a manner which addsto the attractiveness of the shoe.

Inasmuch as the lower side of the shank piece is entirely covered by theupper material and the lasting fastenings are located along thelongitudinal center of the shoe bottom in the shank portion of theshoe,it ls'practicable to employ an outsole having an exceptionally narrowshank portion as required in the manufacture of socalled "fiddle shankshoes, and effectively to secure the narrow shank portion of the outsoleto the shoe bottom by means of cement.

Having described my invention, what'I claim as new and desire to. secureby Letters Patent of the United'states is: v w i. That improvement inmethods of making shoes which comprises providing a shank piece havingin its outer side a relatively wide and shallow channel extendinglengthwise thereof, assembling said shank piece with an insole memberand an upper on a last, working the upper over the last, overlapping theopposite margins of 'the upper beneath said shank piece with theinnermost of said overlapped portions received within said channel andsecuring said upper margins to the shank piece, and attaching an outsoleand a.heel to the shoe. 7

2. Thatimprovement in methods of.making shoes which comprises providinga shank piece having in its'outer side arelatively wide and shallowchannel extending, lengthwise thereof, as-

, sembling said shank piece with an'insole memher and an upper on alast, working the upper over the last and securing it in overlastedposition upon said insole member in the i'orepart of the shoe, workingthe upper at one side of the shank portion of the shoe over the last andthe insole, sinking the margin of said portion oath-e upper-flatwisewithin said channel and securingitto the shank piece, working the-upperat the opposite side of the shank portion of the shoe over the last andsecuring it to said shank piece in overlasted-relation to the insolewith its margin overlying the upper margin which is sunk within saidchannel, laying a short outsole having a narrow shank portion andattaching said narrow shank portion to said overlying upper margin, andattaching a heel to said shank piece with the breast of the heelabutting the rear end of said short outsole.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which comprises providinga shank piece having in. its outer side a relatively wide and shallowchannel inside its marginal portions, mounting the shank piece with aninsole member on a last, securing the marginal portion of a shoe upperat one side of. a shoe in overlastedposition within said channel with.the outer surface of said portion substantially flush with theunchanneled portion of the outersurface of the shank piece, securing themarginal portion of the upper at the opposite side of the shoeinoverlasted position uponthe portion within said channel, and attachingan outsole to the ex-- posed overlasted marginal portions of the upper.

gins in overlasted position upon said shankpieee and within said channelby means of lasting fastenings driven into the channeled portion of saidshank piece, securingthe other oi said wide upper margins in overlastedposition upon said shank piece and-overlying the portion of the upperalready within said channel, and attaching an outsole to the exposedoverlasted portions of the 5. ,That improvement in methods. of makingshoes which comprises providing a shank piece shaped to conform to thesurface contour of substantially the entire heel and shank portion ofthe bottom of a last and having in its outer face a relatively wide andshallow centrallongitudinal channel, mounting said shank piece togetherwith an insole member and an upper on a last, working the-upper over thelast and securing its margins in overlasted position upon theinsole inthe forepart of'the shoe and upon the shank piece in the shank portionof theshoe with the upper margins overlapped beneath said channel andwith the innermost of said overlapped portions of the upper sunk withinsaid channel, securing an outsole to the overlasted margins of theupper, trimming the rear portion ofthe outsole-to adapt it to abut thebreast face of a Cuban heel, and

attaching a Cuban heel to said shank piece with the breast of said heelabutting the trimmed rear edge of said outsole.

. 6.. A relatively inflexible shank conform to the contour ofsubstantially the entire heel and shank portion at the bottom of a lastand having in its outer face a'relatively wide and shallow centralchannel extending rearward ly from the front extremity of theshank'piece to,

the ,heelportion thereof for receivingthe overlasted marginal portion ofa shoe upper with the piece shaped to outer surface of the upper flushwith, the outer' tours to the corresponding contours of the heel .andshank portions of the bottom of a last and being of substantialthickness except in its mar- I ginal portion where it is beveled to athinedge, and, said shank piece having in its outer face a relativelywide central slot extending entirely through the shank piece at thefront end portion I of the latter but throughout the rest of its lengthmaterials of a shoe in which the shank piece is extending to auniform'depth substantially less than the thickness of the shank pieceand sub"- stantially equal to the thickness of the upper o beincorporated.

8. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole meniher, a shank piece, and'an'outsole, said' shank piece having a channel inside the marginal por-'tions of its outer surface, the opposite margins of theupper beingoverlapped-in parallel relation to the bottom of the channel with thein-' nermost upper margin sunk within and substantially filling saidchannel, and tireouts'ole being secured to the outermost upper margininthe shank portion ofthe shoe,

9. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole member, and a shank piece, saidshank piece having a relatively wide-"and shallow channelformed in itsouter" surface and extending lengthwise thereof along its centralportion and the opposite sides of the upper being overlapped beneath thechanneled portion of said shank piece, the innermost upper margin beingsunk'within said channel with its outer-surface substantially-flush withthe unchanneled portion ofthe outer surface of the shank piece.

10. Ashoe comprising an insole, a reinforcing" piece secured to theheeland shank portions of cured in oveilasted relation to'said shankpiece .with their margins overlapped upon'one another and overlying saidchanneland with the innermost margin of the upper sunk/within saidchan-. nel, and an outsole secured to'the overlasted margins of theupper. v

11. A shoe comprisingan insole forepart memher, a shank piece having itsforward end portion secured to the rear end portion of said insolemember and having in its outer or lasting side a relatively wide andshallow central channel,

an upper having its side portions cut fuller than nel, and anoutsolesecured to the overlasted margins of theupper. 1

12 A shoe comprising an upperv and each having side portions cut fullerthan normal in the shank portion of the shoe, an insole, and a shankpiece,'said shank piece having a relatively wide and shallow centralchannel in its outer side and the full portions of the upperand thelining being secured together in overlapped relation below the channeledportion 'of said shank piece and arranged with the marginal portions ofthe upper and the lining at one side upper portion substantially flushwith the unchanneled portion of the outer surface of the 13. A shoecomprising an upper, an insole, a outsole, and a relatively inflexibleshank piece between said soles, said shank piece conforming in bothsurface and marginal'contours to the alining r r of the shoe sunk withinsaid channel with said corresponding contours of the bottom of a lastand having a central longitudinal channel in its.

' outer or lasting side, and the opposite margins said,channel with theinnermost of said overlapped portions sunk within said channel.

, 14. A shoe comprising an insole, a shank piece securedto the insoleand having a central longi-v tudinal channelin its outer or lastingside, an upper having its opposite margins overlappedbeneath said shankpiece in parallel relation to the, bottom of said channel with theinnermost of-said overlapped portions sunk within said channel, a heelsecured to said shank piece, and

an outsole secured to the margins of'said'julzmver I and having its rearend abutting thebreast face of said heel; ;f

